Friday 16 May 2014

Suva – A Beginner’s Guide

Suva, our home for the last couple of years, was obviously chosen as the capital of Fiji because of its naturally deep harbour rather than its white sandy beaches (of which there are none) or beautiful weather (it’s in a notorious rain shadow). This lack of stereotypical tropical accouterments sometimes has us scratching our incredibly sweaty brow and asking ourselves “What the hell are we doing here?” Generally this pondering peters out inconclusively after a large gin and tonic (or two).

You can usually pick out the newly arrived expats by their pale skin, numerous bright red mosquito bites and slightly alarmed, confused looks. Here are a few of the things that I have learned since I was in that vulnerable state what seems like such a long time ago.

1. Fiji is far away from (almost) everywhere.

The first clue about how far away Fiji was from anywhere should have been when someone pointed out that Fiji appeared on the edges of both sides of the map hanging up in our UK dining room – literally at the end of the world, twice over.

Our second clue was that it took five days to travel from our little village in the North East of England to Fiji due to multiple Pacific typhoons. There can’t be many families that can say that the only time they were in New Zealand was for a day trip.

People that come to visit us from the UK have to be very committed considering the expense of the tickets and the fact that travel time is around 30 hours each way. That’s a lot of your vacation time spent sitting on airplanes and in airports before you've even got anywhere. Mind you, when you arrive, it’s pretty awesome.

The exception to the faraway rule is for New Zealand and Australia, which explains the plethora of Kiwi and Aussie expats here.

2. It’s hot in Fiji.

One of my abiding memories of living in the Caribbean was the total change of atmosphere when the plane doors opened on arrival from northern climes. Arriving at Nausori Airport, in our damp little corner of Fiji, the sensation is more like entering a steamy sauna than opening a West Indian oven door.

I've had to get over my sweat phobia and my eco-reluctance to put on the air conditioning to survive here. The great thing is that the humidity and rain is often localised to Suva which means that you can get on a boat or a taxi and escape to typical tropical paradise without too much effort.

Too hot? Stick your face in the water! (Full disclosure - this photo was taken in the Yasawas)

Just existing in this heat can be exhausting. There’s a term used locally by expats – tropical torpor – which describes a state of inertia that one occasionally sinks into here. Any effort to be productive is scuppered by the sensation that you’re wearing a lead-lined suit and existing in an atmosphere made up of mostly molasses. The best cure for tropical torpor is to turn the air con or ceiling fan on high and spend a weekend on the sofa napping and watching an entire series of Game of Thrones, Breaking Bad or similar which you bought from the local DVD shop for FJ$5.00.

3. It is 99% certain you will not get a job as a trailing spouse in Fiji.

I’d never heard the term trailing spouse until we started our preparations for moving to Fiji. Everything about it is ugly, from being defined by your relationship, to the implication that you’re trotting along (or being dragged) behind your partner as they engage in worthy employment.

Immigration laws here mean that getting a job once you've arrived with your employed spouse will be next to impossible. Volunteering opportunities are also extremely limited due to the same visa restrictions. Having said that, there are plenty of people in the same boat so friend groups form quickly and the days become inexplicably busy.

This can be a real eye-opener if, like me, you get to the end of your first six months here and you realise that you haven’t even started the great American novel that you told yourself you would write if ever freed from the shackles of gainful employment. Some people do end up getting jobs (I did eventually) but it is the rare exception rather than the rule.

4. The more I know about Fiji, the more complicated it becomes.

Fiji has had a number of coups over the last couple of decades and is currently being run by the military dictatorship that engineered the last one in 2006. Having said that, this isn’t a country of scary armed men and civil unrest. In fact, I feel as safe here as anywhere else I have ever lived. The complexities are subtle - so subtle that until now one could completely ignore them if you wanted to. Elections have been called for September 2014 and while we’re all excited to be in the privileged position to witness the birth of a new democracy, I won’t pretend that it’s not without a bit of trepidation that we’re watching events unfold from front row seats.

5. You can get pretty much everything you need in Suva.

Every few months some poor unsuspecting impending arrival to Suva will post a question about what to bring to Fiji with them in their shipment on the Suva Expat Facebook page. Suva newbies will implore them to bring a lifetime supply of stock cubes, garbage bags and bath mats. This in turn elicits a torrent of responses from old-timers and locals telling everyone to get a grip. The good news (for Americans) is that you can get Skippy peanut butter (Cost u Less) and green enchilada sauce (New World). You can even now get a decent baguette from the Hot Bread Kitchen at Damodar City.

Beats Waitrose hands down.
If you want lashings of gorgonzola and Parma ham, you’re moving to the wrong country. If you want shimmering lumps of sashimi-grade tuna and heaps of beautiful fresh fruit and vegetables that are reasonably priced then you’re coming to the right place. Mind you, I'm considering adopting a public display of mourning now that avocado season is over.

There are hardware stores, banks, chemists (pharmacies), schools, three universities, public pools, film festivals, good and cheap public transport, outdoor pursuit clubs, cooking classes, language classes... It’s all there – you just need to know where to look.

The USP campus is pretty darned attractive.
6. You can be happy in Suva.

Despite anything negative I've said in this post, I would never discourage anyone from moving to Suva. Living here has had it challenges, and while we've been forced outside of our comfort limits once or twice (or a hundred times), our time here has been rewarding and exciting.

My Suva Picnic Park - my new favourite place to loiter.
Suva itself is undergoing a transformation – the waterfront part that stretches from Suva Point towards the city centre around the peninsula, My Suva Picnic Park, is a wonderful place to walk and people watch. We've witnessed the resurrection of the Grand Pacific Hotel and anticipate having high tea in grand style when it opens. We’re also getting a Mexican restaurant in the brand new Damodar City complex, which also has a food court, a cinema (the second multiplex in town) and lots of other useful shops. This is an event of intense culinary interest in a city with no Italian, Thai or Vietnamese restaurants.

But it’s the people that make the place. Everyone in Suva has a story to tell – the Fijians and the expats. If you put yourself in the position to listen to them you will find some of the most fascinating people on the planet. Some of them will turn into good friends, others will be passing acquaintances, but each encounter will leave you a little richer than you were before.

Occasionally when I walking down the mean streets of Suva, I get a similar discombobulating sensation to when I’m flying. But instead of “OMG, I’m in a small metal tube, 51000 feet above the ground with no visible means of support!” it’s more like “Am I really existing on a small speck of land in the middle of the Pacific? How weird, because it feels strangely like home.”

62 comments:

  1. Hi Mary, still reading your blog and enjoying it immensely! I'm feeling very envious of the food having just put away a fried breakfast... I would join your mourning period over avocados if I were where you are. Take care, Becky

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    1. Hi Rebecca: I am envious of your fried breakfast - I miss proper English sausages! Come to visit any time - we've got a spare bedroom! Mary xxx

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  2. Found your blog by Googling "fiji expat blog" - love it! Will be bookmarking and returning often. Thank you for the laughs!

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    1. Thanks for your kind words - there is certainly never a dull moment here in Suva.

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  3. Hi Mary

    Really enjoying your blog - I have a Fiji related question I'm struggling to find the answer to and wondered if you might know. I’m moving out to Fiji in a few weeks to live and work for a couple of years and I’ve heard that taking money out of the country can be tricky. Is this something you’ve found whilst you’ve been there, or have you heard if this is the case? I’m going to be paying a mortgage back in Australia with my Fiji salary and I’m concerned this might be a problem. I was planning to regularly transfer money electronically, not actually take cash out of the country. I can’t seem to find any guidance on this matter anywhere!
    Thanks in advance for any info you might have.
    Cheers

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  4. I'm enjoying your blog Miss Mary

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  5. Keep on writing!��

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  6. Hello! Thank you so much for the blog! I have read it numerous times trying to get a better idea of my soon to be home! I have to be honest. I'm scared. Scared of the rain. I don't do well with gloom. When I though Fiji... I did not think RAIN! I'm moving in January to work at a school and I'm wondering if it's possible to commute from anywhere that is not as rainy? Say Pacific Harbour? Does the rain ever stop? If not.... I may have to learn to really like Gin and Tonics!!! :) Thanks so much for the blog. It's makes me laugh!

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    1. Not sure that Pacific Harbour is any drier. Just spend weekends at resorts every couple of months - there are some very reasonably priced ones.

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  26. So I say unto you: Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you. ...(Matthew 7:7)

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    ReplyDelete
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  29. IQ FINANCE PLC provides a full financial planning service to both the commercial and domestic markets. At IQ FINANCE PLC we believe that financial planning is about two things: creating wealth and protecting wealth. These two objectives are at the heart of everything we do. And, as a member of IQ FINANCE Services, we give you a small-company service but with a large-company set up – the best of both worlds.

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  30. Contact: Gary Snyder
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    ReplyDelete

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  33. Private Lender Bentex Funding Group Ltd.
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    ReplyDelete
  34. Dearest Esteems,

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  36. We offer private, commercial and personal loans with very low annual interest rates as low as 2% in one year to 50 years repayment period anywhere in the world. We offer loans ranging from $ 5,000 to USA $ 100 million. Our loans are well insured for maximum security is our priority. Are you losing sleep at nights worrying how to get a legitimate loan lender? Are you biting your fingernails to the quick? Instead of hitting you, contact Mark Home Loan (Loan Services) now, the specialists who help stop the bad credit history loans, to find a solution that victory is our mission. E-mail: markmoelloanhouse@hotmail.com
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    ReplyDelete
  38. Hello, My name is Carolina Smith. i want to use this opportunity to thank this loan company that offered me a loan to start up a business. now i made it to a business owner. all thanks to them for the financial support. Email. boa.loans@aol. com

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  40. We are end suppliers of gold sourcing directly from local

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  42. email: visacreditcardsolution@gmail.comGET YOUR BLANK ATM CREDIT CARD AT AFFORDABLE PRICE*
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  43. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  53. GOOD CARD WITH COOL CASH...Get THE 2022 BLANK ATM Programmed Card and cash money directly in any ATM Machine around you. There is no risk of being caught, because the card has been programmed in such a way that it´s not traceable, it also has a technique that makes it impossible for the CCTV to detect you and you can withdraw a total sum of $5,000.00 USD daily,try and get yours today from (MR OSCAR WHITE ) of oscarwhitehackersworld@gmail.com And be among the lucky ones who are benefiting from it. Now email the hacker :  oscarwhitehackersworld@gmail.com or Text/WhatsApp +1(330)-732-5665

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  54. I’m Joseph from New Jersey, United States. I lost my job a few months back after my divorce with my wife. I tried everything positive to make sure I took good care of my kids but all failed, and I was in debt which makes everything worse. I was kicked out of my home and i had to live with my neighbor after pleading with her to allow me to stay with her for some days while I figured out how to get a home which she agreed to, but no one was willing to help anymore. I bumped into this page from google and I was excited about this, then I contacted the hackers Bill Dean. I had just $200, so I pleaded with them to help me because of my condition but they never accepted. I believed in this, so I managed to pawn a few things and got $500. I ordered the $10,000 card and I got my card delivered to me by Ups 4 days later. I never believed my eyes! I was excited and upset as well, I managed to withdraw $2000 on the ATM and $2500 the second day. I went to Walmart and a grocery store and bought a couple of things for $3000. The card got blocked the third day and I contacted them and I was told it's a mistake from my end. I’m so happy, I have started all over again and have a good apartment with my kids you can contact him through is via email (officialhackingcompany@gmail.com)

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  55. ● Hello, we are offering service for Online CC /w High Balance which is ATM Card. You can use it anywhere in the world to withdraw money from any ATM machine. Contact us with the following email address: cyberatmhackingservice@gmail.com   -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
    -- -- --------------What are the list, cost and how do i purchase the card?  Contact us on: Email: cyberatmhackingservice@gmail.com
    ★  How it works? Our cards are loaded with balance of $5,000 to $100,000 with different daily withdraw limit depending on the card you are ordering and you can use the ATM card to withdraw cash anywhere.
    ★  Is this real? Yes, as shown in the video, we withdraw cash multiple times without any issues. You can do it too.
    ★  Can i be traced? No, your withdraw/transactions are completely anonymous.
    ★  Is this legal? We'll leave that for you to asnwer but we have not had any issues when doing this method. ★  Are people using this? Absolutely, people have quit most of their hard jobs to withdraw money instantly. Men and women use this card but we dont deal with kids or anyone below 18yrs
    ★  How do I get my card? We will ship your card with Pin 2 hours after receiving clear payment from you and the card will be send to you through courier delivery services. Our package usually delivered within 2-3 business day. Once you receive the card you can start cashing out.
    ★   Are you guys for real? YES: we are 100% real and been doing this since 2015 and once you withdraw with our card please do drop a comment right here for other people to see we are being serious here. -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --                EMAIL US AT: cyberatmhackingservice@gmail.com
    Visit youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChOMZOxlYA4tT5RnYkjbB5g

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  56. I know a professional Private Investigator named james who has worked for me before on something i can't disclose, he offers very legitimate services such as clearing of bad records online without being traced back to you, He clone/hack mobile phones, hack Facebook account, instagram, WhatsApp, emails, Twitter, bank accounts, Skype, FIXES CREDIT REPORTs, track calls. He also help retrieve accounts that have been taking by hackers. His charges are affordable, reliable and 100% safe. For his job well done this is my own way to show appreciation, Contact him via address ethicalhackers009@gmail.com
    Whatsapp +14106350697

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